Complete Guide to Outdoor Staghorn Fern Care and Growth

Quick Overview

Growing Staghorn Ferns (Platycerium bifurcatum and other species) outdoors can create a stunning, tropical display in your garden, patio, or lanai. These unique epiphytic ferns, known for their distinctive antler-like fertile fronds and shield-like basal fronds, thrive when their natural treetop habitat is mimicked. Success outdoors hinges on providing the right conditions: dappled shade, high humidity, good air circulation, and protection from frost and harsh elements.

This guide focuses on cultivating Staghorn Ferns in an outdoor setting, whether mounted on trees, plaques, or grown in hanging baskets. For general information and indoor care, please see our Complete Guide to Staghorn Fern Care.

Ideal Light Conditions Outdoors

Staghorn Ferns thrive in bright, indirect light or dappled sunlight when grown outdoors. They naturally grow under the canopy of larger trees.

• Dappled Shade: This is the ideal scenario, mimicking filtered sunlight through tree leaves. Locations under large trees with open canopies are perfect.
• Morning Sun, Afternoon Shade: Gentle morning sun (a few hours) is generally well-tolerated and can even enhance growth, but they must be protected from intense midday and afternoon sun, which can scorch their fronds.
• Bright Shade: A spot that receives no direct sun but is brightly lit by reflected or ambient light, such as a covered patio or lanai, can also work.

Avoid deep, dark shade, as this can lead to slow growth and less vigorous plants. Conversely, too much direct sun will cause sunburn, characterized by brown or bleached patches on the fronds.

Epiphytic Nature

Mounting Staghorn Ferns

This is the most natural and often preferred way to grow them outdoors.

1. Choose a Mount: Select a sturdy, weather-resistant piece of hardwood (like cedar, oak, or cypress), cork bark, a tree fern plaque, or even the trunk of a suitable living tree in your garden. Avoid pressure-treated wood.
2. Prepare the Fern: If you have a potted fern, gently remove it from its pot and shake off loose soil.
3. Create a Base: Place a generous mound of sphagnum moss, coco coir, or a mix of epiphytic orchid bark and peat on the mount where the fern will sit. This will hold moisture around the roots.
4. Position the Fern: Place the base of the Staghorn Fern (where the shield fronds and roots are) firmly onto the mossy mound. Ensure the growing point of the fertile fronds is oriented upwards or outwards.
5. Secure the Fern: Use non-copper wire (copper is toxic to some plants), strong fishing line, plastic-coated wire, or strips of nylon stocking to secure the fern to the mount. Wrap it around the root ball and shield fronds, ensuring it’s firm but not so tight that it damages new growth. The shield fronds will eventually grow over the securing material.
6. Hang or Attach: Hang your mounted fern in its chosen outdoor location.

Growing in Hanging Baskets

Staghorn Ferns also do well in hanging baskets, especially wire baskets lined with sphagnum moss or coco fiber.

1. Line the Basket: Thoroughly line a wire hanging basket with a thick layer of sphagnum moss or a coco coir liner.
2. Add Medium: Fill part of the basket with a very coarse, well-draining epiphytic potting mix (e.g., orchid bark mix, tree fern fiber, perlite, charcoal, and some sphagnum moss).
3. Plant the Fern: Position the Staghorn Fern in the basket so its base is well-supported by the medium. Add more mix around the root ball.
4. Water Thoroughly: After planting, water well.

Planting on Trees

Watering Needs

Outdoor Staghorn Ferns require regular and thorough watering, especially during warm, dry weather. The frequency will depend on your climate, the fern’s exposure, and its mounting/potting method.

• Mounted Ferns: The mounting medium (e.g., sphagnum moss) should be allowed to become slightly dry to the touch between waterings. Water thoroughly by soaking the entire mount or hosing it down until the moss and root ball are saturated.
• Basket-Grown Ferns: Water when the top inch or two of the potting medium feels slightly dry. Ensure thorough saturation and that excess water drains freely.

Watering Technique and Frequency

• Water the entire root mass and shield fronds well. The shield fronds help absorb water and nutrients.
• During hot, dry periods, you might need to water every few days or even daily for some setups. In cooler, humid weather, watering frequency can be reduced.
• Always use room-temperature water if possible, and preferably rainwater or filtered water if your tap water is very hard or chlorinated.
• It’s generally better to water thoroughly and less often than to give frequent light sprinklings.

Signs of Improper Watering

• Underwatering: Fertile fronds may wilt, turn dull, or develop brown, crispy tips and edges. Shield fronds may look shriveled.
• Overwatering (or poor drainage): Can lead to rot in the shield fronds or root ball, especially if the medium stays constantly soggy. Fronds may yellow or become mushy at the base.

Importance of High Humidity

Maintaining Humidity Outdoors

• Location Choice: Site your fern in a naturally humid part of your garden, such as near a pond or water feature, in a sheltered courtyard, or amongst other plants which can increase local humidity through transpiration.
• Misting: In dry weather, mist the fronds (both fertile and shield) regularly, preferably in the morning. This provides a temporary boost.
• Grouping Plants: Planting other humidity-loving plants nearby can help create a more humid microclimate.
• Protection from Wind: Dry winds can rapidly desiccate the fronds. Choose a location sheltered from strong, drying winds. If you live in a very arid climate, successfully growing Staghorn Ferns outdoors without significant supplemental humidity (like a misting system in a shade house) can be very difficult.

Ideal Temperature Range and Hardiness

Platycerium bifurcatum, the common Staghorn Fern, is relatively adaptable but has its limits.

• Ideal Growing Temperatures: Thrives in temperatures between 60-80°F (15-27°C).
• Hardiness Zones: Generally hardy in USDA zones 9b-11. It can tolerate brief drops to around 30°F (-1°C) if mature and conditions are dry, but prolonged frost or freezes will damage or kill the fronds. The base/rhizome is more cold-hardy than the fronds.
• Other Platycerium species have different cold tolerances; some are more tropical and less cold-hardy.

Frost and Cold Protection

If temperatures are expected to drop near or below freezing:

• Bring Indoors: Small mounted or basketed ferns can be brought into a frost-free, sheltered location like a garage, shed, or covered porch.
• Cover: Larger, permanently mounted ferns can be protected by covering them with frost cloth, old sheets, or burlap. Using non-LED Christmas lights under the cover can provide a small amount of warmth.
• Location: Planting in a microclimate, such as against a south-facing wall or under a dense tree canopy, can offer some natural frost protection.
• Ensure the plant is well-watered before a cold snap, as hydrated plants tolerate cold better. Damaged fronds can be pruned off in spring after the danger of frost has passed.

Understanding Epiphytic Needs

Materials for Mounting

• Sphagnum Moss: The most common base material for mounting. It holds moisture well and provides a good rooting medium.
• Coco Coir Fiber: An alternative to sphagnum moss, also good for moisture retention.
• Leaf Mold/Compost: A small amount can be mixed with sphagnum moss to provide some nutrients.

Materials for Baskets

• Orchid Bark Mix: A coarse mix containing fir bark, charcoal, perlite, and sometimes sphagnum moss or tree fern fiber is ideal. This provides excellent drainage and aeration.
• Sphagnum Moss / Coco Coir Liner: Used to line wire baskets before adding the coarser potting medium.
• Avoid using standard potting soil, as it will likely stay too wet and compact, leading to root rot. The mix must be very airy.

Fertilizer Needs

Type and Frequency

• Balanced Liquid Fertilizer: Use a balanced liquid fertilizer (e.g., 20-20-20 or similar) diluted to half the strength recommended on the label. High-nitrogen fertilizers (like fish emulsion) can also be used to promote lush frond growth.
• Frequency: Apply monthly during spring and summer.
• Application: Water the mounting medium or basket mix thoroughly with the fertilizer solution, ensuring it reaches the root zone. You can also lightly spray the fronds (both shield and antler) with the diluted fertilizer, as they can absorb some nutrients.
• Slow-Release Pellets (for baskets): Some growers incorporate slow-release fertilizer pellets into the basket medium at the beginning of the growing season.
• Organic Options: Banana peels (chopped and tucked behind shield fronds or soaked to make “banana tea”) are a traditional organic fertilizer for staghorns, providing potassium.
• Reduce or stop fertilizing in fall and winter when growth slows.

Minimal Pruning Required

Staghorn Ferns require very little pruning.

• Fertile (Antler) Fronds: Remove any fertile fronds that have died, turned completely brown, or become badly damaged. Cut them off at their base where they emerge from the shield fronds, using clean, sharp scissors or pruners.
• Basal (Shield) Fronds: Do not remove the shield fronds, even when they turn brown and papery. These fronds are essential for the plant’s health. They protect the roots, anchor the fern, and collect water and organic debris which decompose to provide nutrients. Only remove shield fronds if they are clearly diseased, rotting, or harboring a severe pest infestation that cannot be otherwise treated. If a shield frond is partially damaged, trim only the damaged part.

Methods of Propagation

Propagating by Offsets (Pups)

Mature Staghorn Ferns will often produce small offsets or “pups” around the base of the main plant or along the edges of the shield fronds.

1. Wait for Maturity: Allow the pup to develop its own small shield frond(s) and a few small antler fronds, and to have formed some roots. It should be at least 4-6 inches across.
2. Careful Separation: Using a clean, sharp knife, carefully cut the pup away from the parent plant. Try to include a portion of the old shield frond from the parent (if possible) and as many roots as you can with the pup. This is often done when remounting a large specimen.
3. Mount or Pot the Pup: Mount the pup onto its own small plaque with sphagnum moss, or pot it into a small basket with appropriate epiphytic mix, following the same methods as for mature plants.
4. Aftercare: Keep the newly separated pup in a shaded, very humid environment and the mounting medium consistently moist until it establishes and shows new growth.

Propagating from Spores

This method is more complex and time-consuming, similar to other ferns.

• Spores are found in brownish, velvety patches (sori) on the undersides of the tips of fertile fronds.
• Collect spores by placing a mature, spore-bearing frond tip in a paper bag or on a sheet of paper until the spores are released.
• Sow the fine, dust-like spores on the surface of a sterilized, moist, peat-based medium in a covered container to maintain high humidity.
• Place in bright, indirect light and maintain consistent warmth and moisture. Germination and development into recognizable plantlets can take many months to over a year.

Pests That May Affect Outdoor Staghorn Ferns

While generally resilient, outdoor Staghorn Ferns can be susceptible to a few pests, especially if stressed.

• Scale Insects: These appear as small, immobile bumps on the fronds (both sides) and stems. They suck sap and can cause yellowing and weakening. Control by dabbing with alcohol-soaked cotton swabs for light infestations or using horticultural oil or insecticidal soap (test on a small area first, as fronds can be sensitive).
• Mealybugs: Small, white, cottony insects that also feed on sap, often hiding in crevices or under shield fronds. Treat similarly to scale.
• Slugs & Snails: Can be a problem for outdoor ferns, especially damaging new, tender fertile fronds or young pups. Use organic slug baits, beer traps, or handpick them at night.
• Thrips: Less common, but can cause silvery stippling or distorted growth on fronds. Insecticidal soap can be effective.

Regularly inspect your fern, including under the fronds and around the base, for any signs of pests. Good air circulation can help deter some issues.

Troubleshooting Outdoor Staghorn Fern Issues

Most problems with outdoor Staghorn Ferns are related to environmental conditions or watering.

• Brown, Crispy Edges on Fertile Fronds: Usually a sign of low humidity or underwatering. The fronds are desiccating. Increase watering frequency and/or misting, especially during dry, hot, or windy weather.
• Yellowing Fertile Fronds: Can be caused by overwatering (if the root mass stays too wet), severe underwatering, nutrient deficiency, or too much direct sun. Check the moisture level of the mounting medium or basket mix.
• Shield Frond Rot/Blackening: If the shield fronds become soft, black, and mushy, it’s often due to excessive moisture trapped behind them with poor air circulation, or physical damage allowing pathogens to enter. Ensure the mounting allows for some airflow and the medium isn’t constantly waterlogged. Avoid forceful watering directly into the very center of young shield fronds.
• Sunburn or Leaf Scorch: Appears as bleached, tan, or brown patches on fronds exposed to too much direct sunlight. Provide more shade.
• Slow or Stunted Growth: Could be due to insufficient light (deep shade), low humidity, lack of nutrients, or the plant being too cold.

Addressing these issues typically involves adjusting the plant’s location for better light/protection, modifying watering habits, or improving humidity.

Adapting to Seasons

• Spring: As temperatures warm and days lengthen, increase watering and begin fertilizing. This is a good time to repot/remount or divide if needed. Watch for new frond growth.
• Summer: This is the peak growing season. Ensure consistent and ample watering, especially during heat waves. Protect from intense afternoon sun. High humidity is crucial. Monitor for pests.
• Autumn: Gradually reduce watering frequency and stop fertilizing as temperatures cool and growth slows. Prepare for potential frost protection in late autumn if you are in a marginal zone.
• Winter: In frost-free zones (10-11), the fern may slow growth but remain evergreen. Water sparingly, only enough to prevent the root mass from completely drying out. In zones 9b or cooler areas of 9a, provide frost protection (see Temperature section). If fronds are damaged by a light frost, leave them until spring before pruning.

Showcasing Your Staghorn Fern Outdoors

The architectural and prehistoric look of Staghorn Ferns makes them stunning additions to outdoor spaces:

• Mounted on Tree Trunks: Attach them to the trunks or large branches of sturdy trees in your garden for a natural, jungle-like effect. Choose trees that provide dappled shade.
• Wall-Mounted Plaques: Mount on large pieces of driftwood, cork bark, or weather-resistant wooden plaques and hang them on shaded walls, fences, or under eaves.
• Large Hanging Baskets: Wire baskets lined with sphagnum moss or coco fiber, filled with an airy epiphytic mix, make impressive hanging displays for patios, lanais, or under pergolas.
• Groupings: Create a “Staghorn wall” or group several mounted ferns of different sizes or species for a dramatic vertical garden feature.
• Understory Accent: In a lush, tropical-style garden, use them as an understory accent in a very well-drained, raised area if direct mounting isn’t possible (though mounting is preferred).
• Conservatories and Shade Houses: These controlled environments can provide the ideal humidity and light for showcasing spectacular specimens.

Consider the viewing angles and how the light will hit the fronds to best display their unique shapes and textures.

Expert Advice for Magnificent Outdoor Staghorns

• Prioritize Air Circulation: While they love humidity, good air movement is also important, especially around the shield fronds, to prevent fungal issues. Avoid overly crowded or stagnant locations.
• Water Quality Matters: If possible, use rainwater, distilled water, or filtered water, especially if your tap water is hard or heavily chlorinated.
• Understand Shield Frond Behavior: Remember that brown, papery shield fronds are normal and vital. Don’t remove them unless truly necessary for disease control.
• Protect from Strong Winds: Besides drying out the fronds, strong winds can physically damage the large antler fronds. A sheltered spot is best.
• Observe and Adapt: Pay close attention to your fern’s response to its environment. Outdoor conditions can change rapidly. Be prepared to adjust watering, provide temporary shade, or offer frost protection as needed.
• Patience with Growth: Staghorn Ferns are not the fastest growers, especially when young or newly mounted. Provide consistent care, and they will reward you with their unique beauty over time.

Enjoying Your Outdoor Staghorn Fern

Cultivating Staghorn Ferns outdoors is a rewarding endeavor that brings a touch of the exotic and ancient to your garden or patio. Their unique dual-frond system and epiphytic growth habit make them fascinating subjects. While they require specific conditions, particularly dappled light, high humidity, and protection from extremes, a well-sited and cared-for Staghorn Fern can become a magnificent living sculpture and a conversation piece for many years.

By understanding their natural preferences and providing consistent care tailored to your local climate, you can successfully grow these incredible plants and enjoy their primeval beauty. For tips on growing these unique plants indoors, check out our general Staghorn Fern care guide.

How do I mount a Staghorn Fern outside?

What kind of tree can I mount a Staghorn Fern on?

How often should I water my outdoor Staghorn Fern?

How do I protect my Staghorn Fern from frost?

Should I remove the brown, papery shield fronds?