Complete Guide to Monstera Dubia Care and Growth

Ideal Light for Monstera Dubia

Monstera dubia thrives in bright, indirect light. In nature, it starts on the dark forest floor and climbs trees to reach more light. To keep it happy, place it in a spot where it gets plenty of bright, filtered light but is protected from the harsh rays of the direct sun.

Too much direct sun will scorch its leaves, especially the flat, exposed juvenile ones. Too little light will slow its growth significantly and may cause the silvery markings to be less pronounced. An east-facing window is an excellent choice.

Best & Worst Light Conditions

• Best Light Conditions:

  • Near an east-facing window with gentle morning sun.
  • A few feet from a south or west-facing window, protected by a sheer curtain.
  • Inside a bright greenhouse cabinet.

• Avoid:

  • Direct, intense sunlight that will burn the foliage.
  • Very low light, which will lead to stunted growth.

Watering Needs

Watering Frequency

• Growing Season (Spring-Summer): Water thoroughly about once a week, always checking the soil moisture first.
• Dormant Season (Fall-Winter): Reduce watering as growth slows, perhaps to every 2 weeks.

How to Water

What Kind of Soil Does Monstera Dubia Like?

As a climbing epiphyte, Monstera dubia requires a very chunky, airy, and well-draining soil mix. Its roots need excellent airflow and cannot tolerate being compacted or waterlogged. The goal is to mimic the loose, organic-rich substrate of the forest floor.

The ideal soil should be:

• Extremely chunky and porous.
• Fast-draining.
• Rich in organic matter like orchid bark.

DIY Soil Mix Recipe for Monstera Dubia

A standard aroid mix is perfect. You can create an excellent blend for your dubia with this recipe:

• 1 part potting soil
• 2 parts orchid bark
• 1 part perlite
• 1 part sphagnum moss or coco coir

This mix ensures sharp drainage while retaining enough moisture and humidity around the roots.

The Key to Shingling: Humidity

High humidity is absolutely essential for Monstera dubia, especially for its shingling habit. The plant uses tiny adventitious roots to grip the climbing surface, and these roots will only grow and adhere in a very humid environment. This is the most critical care requirement.

• Ideal Humidity: 70% or higher. It will languish in average household humidity.
• Signs of Low Humidity: Leaves will refuse to lie flat, curling away from the board. Leaf edges will turn brown and crispy.

How to Increase Humidity

• Greenhouse Cabinet or Terrarium: This is the best way to provide the consistent, high humidity it needs.
• Use a Humidifier: Place a humidifier right next to the plant and run it regularly.
• Frequent Misting: Misting the plant and its climbing plank several times a day can help, but it’s hard to maintain consistency.

From Shingle to Split-Leaf

The most magical aspect of Monstera dubia is its dramatic transformation. The plant has two distinct life stages.

The Juvenile Shingling Stage: This is the form you typically buy. The plant produces small, heart-shaped leaves with beautiful silvery markings. It grows as a vine that presses its leaves perfectly flat against a surface, creating the “shingle” effect. It will stay in this stage as long as it is climbing.

The Mature Fenestrated Stage: Once the vine has climbed to a sufficient height (often 5-10 feet), it undergoes a radical change. It will begin to produce much larger, solid green leaves that hang away from the climbing surface. These mature leaves will develop the iconic splits (fenestrations) characteristic of the Monstera genus, looking very similar to a deliciosa leaf. This transformation rarely happens outside of a dedicated greenhouse environment due to the height requirement.

When to Repot

You’ll likely need to repot your Monstera dubia when it outgrows its climbing plank rather than its pot. This happens every 1-2 years.

• Signs:
  • The vine has reached the top of its board.
  • The roots are heavily circling the bottom of the pot.

How to Repot and Extend the Plank

1. Choose a Pot and Plank: Select a pot that’s only 1-2 inches larger. The most important part is the new plank. You can either attach an extension to the existing plank or replace it with a much taller one.
2. Repot: Gently place the plant and its attached plank into the new pot. Fill around it with fresh aroid mix.
3. Encourage Climbing: Ensure the newest growth is positioned to continue climbing up the plank. You can use soft plant ties or clips to help it get started on the new section if needed.

Creating New Plants

How to Propagate

1. Take a Cutting: Using clean shears, cut a section of the vine. Make sure your cutting has at least one leaf and one node (the small bump on the stem opposite a leaf). A cutting with 2-3 nodes is ideal.
2. Use a Propagation Box: This is the most effective method. Lay the cutting flat on a bed of damp sphagnum moss inside a clear plastic box or container. Do not bury it. The stem should make good contact with the moss.
3. Provide Humidity and Light: Close the container to create a high-humidity environment. Place it in bright, indirect light.
4. Wait for Roots: Open the box every few days to air it out. Roots should form from the nodes in a few weeks. Once the cutting has a healthy root system and is producing a new leaf, it can be potted up with a small starter plank.

Pests That May Affect Monstera Dubia

Its high humidity requirements can sometimes attract pests. Inspect the leaves and stems regularly.

• Thrips - These are a common pest for Monsteras, causing silvery patches on the leaves.
• Spider Mites - Can appear if the environment, paradoxically, has poor air circulation despite high humidity. Look for fine webbing.
• Mealybugs - Can hide in the crevices where the leaf petiole meets the stem.

Troubleshooting Monstera Dubia Issues

This plant’s problems are almost always related to its two critical needs: a climbing surface and humidity.

• Leaves Not Shingling - The plant has nothing to climb, or the humidity is too low for its aerial roots to stick. This is the plant’s main way of showing it’s unhappy. Provide a flat surface and drastically increase humidity.
• Yellowing Leaves - A classic sign of overwatering. The chunky soil mix should prevent this, but check your watering frequency.
• Root Rot - Caused by the soil staying too wet for too long. Ensure excellent drainage.
• Brown, Crispy Edges - A tell-tale sign of low humidity. The air is too dry.

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