Complete Guide to Ficus Burgundy Care (Rubber Plant)

Ficus Burgundy

Ficus elastica 'Burgundy'

Burgundy Rubber Plant, Burgundy Rubber Tree, Ficus robusta 'Burgundy', Black Prince Rubber Plant

Water Needs Allow soil to dry out significantly

Light Needs Bright, indirect light to maintain dark color

Difficulty Rating Beginner-friendly

Toxicity Toxic to pets and humans (irritating sap)

With its deep, glossy, almost black foliage, the Ficus Burgundy is the moodier, more sophisticated cousin of the classic Rubber Plant. Here is how to keep those dark leaves shiny and dramatic.

Ficus Rubber Plant Indoor Trees Burgundy Air Purifying Low Maintenance Large Plants

📝 Ficus Burgundy Care Notes

🌿 Care Instructions

Watering: Water thoroughly when the soil is 75% dry.

Soil: Chunky, well-draining aroid mix.

Fertilizing: Monthly during the growing season with balanced liquid fertilizer.

Pruning: Prune to shape or encourage branching; watch out for latex sap.

Propagation: Stem cuttings in water or soil; air layering for large branches.

⚠️ Common Pests

Monitor for spider-mites, mealybugs, scale, and thrips. Wipe leaves regularly.

📊 Growth Information

Height: Up to 6-8 feet indoors (can reach 100ft in wild)

Spread: 2-3 feet wide

Growth Rate: Fast grower in good light (2ft/year)

Lifespan: Perennial (decades)

Anastasia Remeslo

A Note From Our Plant Expert

There is something undeniably sophisticated about the Ficus Burgundy. While the classic Rubber Plant (Ficus elastica) is a staple of the houseplant world, known for its bright green, retro vibe, the ‘Burgundy’ cultivar brings a level of drama that few other plants can match. Its leaves aren’t just green; they are a deep, glossy, purplish-black that looks almost leather-like in texture, often contrasted by a bright red midrib.

I often recommend the Ficus Burgundy to people who want the structural impact of a Fiddle Leaf Fig (Ficus lyrata) but don’t want the heartbreak that often comes with it. This plant is resilient. It forgives you if you forget to water it occasionally (in fact, it prefers it), and it grows with a satisfying speed that makes you feel like a master horticulturist. It’s the “strong, silent type” of the plant world—reliable, stunning, and commanding.

However, keeping that dark, moody foliage pristine does require a specific approach to light and cleaning. Light is the paintbrush that colors this plant; without specific intensity, it fades to a muddy green. And dust is its enemy. In this guide, we’ll dive deep into exactly how to maintain that signature burgundy sheen, how to propagate your own mini-forest, and how to keep your tree thriving for years.

☀️ Ficus Burgundy Light Requirements (Ideal Lighting)

Lighting is the single most critical factor for the Ficus Burgundy, not just for growth, but for color. The rule of thumb is simple: brightness equals darkness. To keep those leaves a deep, rich burgundy, you need plenty of bright light.

Bright, Indirect Light is Best

The Ficus Burgundy thrives in bright, indirect light. This means it should be near a window where it can see the sky, but perhaps not directly in the path of harsh midday sun beams, especially if you live in a very hot climate.

North-Facing Window: This is likely too dark. You will see the plant survive, but it will grow slowly, and the new leaves may emerge more green than burgundy. The internodes (space between leaves) will lengthen, giving the plant a “leggy” or sparse look.
East-Facing Window: Excellent. The gentle morning sun provides the intensity needed without the scorching heat. Your plant will love the first few hours of direct morning rays.
West/South-Facing Window: Ideal, but be careful. These windows provide the strongest light. If the sun is intensely hot, pull the plant back a foot or use a sheer curtain to diffuse the light. However, Ficus elastica is generally quite tough and can often tolerate some direct indoor sun once acclimated.

The “Green Leaf” Reversion: If you notice your Ficus Burgundy’s new leaves look standard green rather than dark purple, your plant is crying out for more photons. The dark anthocyanin pigments (which create the burgundy look) are essentially a sunscreen. Without high light, the plant doesn’t produce them, opting instead for pure green chlorophyll to maximize photosynthesis in the dim environment.

Measuring Light (Foot Candles)

For the data-driven plant parent, aim for:

Minimum for Survival: 200-400 foot-candles. (It will exist, but not thrive).
Ideal for Growth: 800-1000+ foot-candles. This ensures tight internodes and large, dark leaves.
Direct Sun: Can tolerate up to 2000-3000 foot-candles for short periods if acclimated.

Signs of Incorrect Lighting

Too Little Light:
- Leggy growth (long spaces between leaves).
- Leaves turning green.
- Leaf drop from the bottom (the plant sheds older leaves it can’t support energetically).
- Soil staying wet for too long (low light = low transpiration).
Too Much Light:
- Scorch marks (bleached or crispy brown patches). This is rare indoors unless the plant was moved from a dark corner to direct sun instantly.

💧 Ficus Burgundy Watering Guide (How to Water)

The Ficus Burgundy is structurally similar to a succulent in some ways; its thick, fleshy leaves and woody stems store a significant amount of water. This means it is far more tolerant of drought than it is of flooding. Overwatering is the number one killer of this plant.

The Soak and Dry Method

You should allow the soil to dry out significantly between waterings. I recommend waiting until the top 50-75% of the soil is dry.

Stick your finger in: If you feel moisture an inch or two down, wait.
Lift the pot: If it feels heavy, wait. Dry soil is significantly lighter than wet soil.
Use a chopstick: Push a wooden chopstick down to the bottom of the pot. If it comes out damp with soil clinging to it, or if the wood is darkened by moisture, do not water.

When you do water, water thoroughly. Pour water until it flows freely from the drainage holes. This flushes out salt buildup and ensures the entire root system gets a drink. Then, importantly, discard the excess water in the saucer. Never let a Ficus sit in standing water; its roots will rot rapidly (within days).

Seasonal Adjustments

Watering is not a schedule; it’s a reaction to the environment.

Spring/Summer: The plant is actively growing and processing water. You might water every 7-10 days depending on heat and light.
Autumn/Winter: The plant enters a semi-dormant state. Light levels drop, and evaporation slows. You might only need to water once every 3-4 weeks. Always check the soil, not the calendar. Overwatering in winter is the most common cause of Ficus death.

Water Quality

Ficus elastica are generally not as sensitive to tap water chemicals (fluoride/chlorine) as Dracaenas or Calatheas. However, if you have very hard water, you might notice white mineral deposits on the leaves (transpired salts). If this happens, or if you see brown tips, switching to filtered or distilled water can help. Room temperature water is always best to avoid shocking the root system.

🪴 Best Soil for Ficus Burgundy (Potting Mix & Drainage)

Because the Ficus Burgundy is prone to root rot, you cannot use heavy, dense garden soil or cheap potting mixes that turn into mud. You need a mix that breathes. Roots need oxygen just as much as they need water.

The Aroid Mix Recipe

The ideal soil structure is chunky and aerated. A standard “Aroid Mix” works perfectly for Ficus.

1 Part Quality Potting Soil (base for moisture retention)
1 Part Perlite or Pumice (for aeration and drainage)
1 Part Orchid Bark (for structure and air pockets)
Optional: A handful of horticultural charcoal (to sweeten the soil and prevent bacterial buildup) and worm castings (for natural slow-release nutrients).

If you don’t want to mix your own, look for a premium potting mix labeled for “Cactus & Succulent” or “Indoor Trees” and add a handful of perlite to be safe. The goal is that when you pour water in, it should disappear into the soil almost immediately, not pool on the surface.

Chosing the Right Pot: Material Matters

The material of your pot significantly impacts how you water.

Terracotta/Clay: Highly recommended. The porous walls allow moisture to evaporate from the sides, helping the soil dry out faster. This mimics the Ficus’s natural preference. You will need to water more frequently.
Plastic/Glazed Ceramic: These hold moisture in. If you use these, be extra careful with your soil mix (add more perlite) and ensure there are plenty of drainage holes.
Cachepots: If using a decorative pot without holes, keep the plant in its plastic nursery pot and lift it out to water it. Never water directly into a pot with no drainage.

🍼 Fertilizing Ficus Burgundy

These plants are hungry giants. When they are in their active growth phase (spring and summer), they appreciate regular feeding to support those large leaves.

Frequency: Fertilize once a month during spring and summer (April to September).
Type: Use a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer (e.g., NPK 10-10-10 or 20-20-20) diluted to half strength. You can also use a “Foliage Pro” fertilizer which is high in Nitrogen to promote leafy growth.
Winter: Stop fertilizing completely in late autumn and winter. The plant isn’t growing fast enough to use the nutrients, and the accumulated salts can burn the roots.

Pro Tip: If you just repotted your plant with fresh soil, typically that soil comes with slow-release fertilizer pellets (often colored balls). You can wait 3-6 months before starting a liquid feeding regimen to avoid “fertilizer burn.”

🌡️ Ficus Burgundy Temperature Range

Native to the tropics of Southeast Asia, the Ficus Burgundy loves warmth. It is not cold-hardy.

Ideal Range: 65°F to 80°F (18°C - 27°C).
Minimum: Try to keep it above 55°F (13°C). Consistent exposure to cold temps will cause sudden leaf drop. A single night below freezing will kill the plant.
Drafts: This is a major sensitivity. Do not place your Ficus Burgundy directly in front of an air conditioner vent, a heater, or a drafty door in winter. The cold/hot blasts will shock the plant, causing leaves to yellow and drop.

Common Myths: Temperature

Myth: “Ficus need to be outside in summer.” Fact: While they love the heat, moving an indoor plant outdoors is shocking. The sudden increase in light and wind often causes leaf scorch. If you do it, you must acclimate it over 2-3 weeks.

💦 Ficus Burgundy Humidity Needs

While they originate from humid rainforests (humidity often >70%), Ficus elastica varieties are surprisingly adaptable to average household humidity (around 40-50%). They have thick, waxy cuticle layers on their leaves that are excellent at retaining moisture, unlike thinner-leaved plants like Calatheas or Ferns.

However, they certainly prefer higher humidity.

Low Humidity Issues: If your home is very dry (winter heating, humidity <30%), you might notice browning tips, slightly slower growth, or smaller new leaves.
Solutions: You can increase humidity with a room humidifier. Grouping plants together also creates a microclimate of higher humidity.
Avoid Misting: Misting is generally ineffective for raising ambient humidity and can encourage fungal issues on the leaves if the water sits too long.

🌸 Do Ficus Burgundy Plants Bloom?

In the wild, yes. Ficus are fig trees. They produce small fruit-like structures called synconiums, which contain the flowers inside. The pollination process involves a specific wasp entering the fig—a fascinating symbiotic relationship.

However, indoor Ficus Burgundy plants almost never bloom. They rarely reach the maturity or receive the environmental signals (light cues, seasonal shifts) required to flower indoors. If you see a “fruit” on your indoor rubber plant, consider yourself incredibly lucky! But primarily, this plant is grown for its stunning foliage, not its flowers.

📅 Seasonal Care Calendar for Ficus Burgundy

Plant care is not static; it changes with the seasons. Here is your year-round game plan.

🌷 Spring (Growth Begins)

Action: Resume fertilizing at half-strength.
Check: Increase watering frequency as the days get longer.
Activity: Best time to prune for branching or take cuttings for propagation. Repot if roots are coming out of the bottom.

☀️ Summer (Peak Growth)

Action: Fertilize monthly. Rotate the pot weekly to ensure even growth.
Check: Watch for pests (spider mites love the heat). Wipe leaves often.
Watering: Max frequency (check soil every 5-7 days).

🍂 Autumn (Preparing for Dormancy)

Action: Stop fertilizing by October. Reduce watering frequency.
Check: Move the plant away from drafty windows or heating vents before the heaters turn on.

❄️ Winter (Rest)

Action: Do not fertilize. Water sparingly (check soil every 2-3 weeks).
Light: Move the plant closer to the window if possible to maximize the weak winter sun.
Warning: This is the danger zone for root rot. When in doubt, don’t water.

🏷️ Ficus Burgundy vs. Other Rubber Plants

The Ficus elastica family is diverse. It’s helpful to know how the Burgundy compares to its siblings, as care requirements can vary slightly, primarily regarding light sensitivity.

Ficus Burgundy: The subject of this guide. Solid dark leaves with red midribs. Needs high light for color, but tolerates lower light better than the variegated types. It is arguably the most elegant of the group.
Ficus Ruby: A variegated variety with stunning pink, cream, and green leaves. The “strawberry-cream” cousin. Needs significantly more light than the Burgundy to keep its pink variagation lively. In low light, the pink fades to a dirty white/green.
Ficus Tineke: The camouflage pattern. Green, cream, and white variegation. Similar care to the Ruby; high light is essential to prevent browning on the white sections.
Rubber Plant (Ficus elastica ‘Robusta’): The original. Pure broad glossy green leaves. The toughest and most low-light tolerant of the bunch, but perhaps less “trendy.”
Ficus Shivereana: A newer cultivar with speckled “mint chip” or “lime green” variegation. High light required.

The Burgundy sits in the middle: more light-demanding than the standard green, but slightly more forgiving than the Ruby or Tineke.

🪴 Potting and Repotting Ficus Burgundy

Young Ficus Burgundy plants can grow fast and may need repotting every year. Mature plants can stay in the same pot for 2-3 years.

When to Repot

Checking the roots is the only sure way to know. Lift the plant out of its pot gently.

Rootbound: If you see roots coiling around the bottom in a circle or forming a solid mat.
Soil Depletion: If the soil looks dusty, gray, and water runs through it instantly without wetting it.
Top Heavy: If the plant keeps falling over.

How to Repot

Choose the right pot: Go up only 1-2 inches in diameter. A pot that is too large holds too much wet soil, leading to root rot. Make sure it has drainage holes!
Prepare the plant: Water it a day before to reduce shock.
Loosen roots: Gently tease the bottom roots if they are tightly shaped like the old pot.
Soil: Use the chunky mix described in the soil section.
Placement: Keep the plant at the same soil depth as before. Do not bury the stem deeper, as the stem can rot.
Aftercare: Water lightly to settle the soil.

Important: Ficus plants can be dramatic about change. Changing its pot and its location at the same time can cause leaf drop. Try to put it back in the same spot after repotting to minimize variables.

✂️ Pruning Ficus Burgundy

Pruning is essential if you want a bushy tree rather than a single straight pole. In nature, wind or animals would break the tips, causing branching. Indoors, you have to do it.

Promoting Branching

If you cut the top of the main stem (the “apical meristem”), you break the “apical dominance.” The plant’s hormones (auxins) redistribute down the stem, waking up the dormant buds at the nodes below. This forces the plant to branch out.

When: Spring is best.
How: Use clean, sharp shears. Cut just above a leaf node.

The Latex Warning

Caution: When you cut a Ficus Burgundy, it will bleed a milky white sap (latex). This sap is messy and can irritate skin and sealed floors.

Wear gloves.
Put a drop cloth down.
Have a wet paper towel ready to dab the cut until the bleeding stops (it dries quickly).
Don’t touch your eyes!

🌱 How to Propagate Ficus Burgundy

Propagating a Ficus is incredibly satisfying. There are two main methods: Stem Cuttings (easy) and Air Layering (advanced, for big branches).

Method 1: Water Propagation (Stem Cuttings)

Take a Cutting: You need a section of stem with at least one leaf and one node (the bump where the leaf connects). A tip cutting with 2-3 leaves works best.
Clean the Sap: Let the cut bleed out and dry for an hour, or wash the cut end under warm water to stop the flow.
Rooting: Place the stem in a clear jar of water. Only the stem should be submerged, not the leaf.
Wait: Place in bright indirect light. Change the water weekly to keep it oxygenated. You should see white nubs (callus) form in 2 weeks, and roots in 4-6 weeks.
Transplant: Once roots are 2-3 inches long, pot them up into soil. Kep the soil slightly moist for the first 2 weeks to help roots acclimate.

Method 2: Air Layering

This method allows you to grow roots on a branch while it is still attached to the mother plant. It has a higher success rate for thick, woody stems.

Select a Spot: Choose a healthy part of the stem 12 inches from the tip.
Wound the Stem: Make a small upward slit in the stem, about halfway through. Insert a toothpick to keep it open.
Apply Moss: Wrap damp sphagnum moss around the wound.
Wrap it Up: Wrap the ball of moss in plastic wrap and secure the top and bottom with twist ties. This creates a mini greenhouse.
Wait: In 1-2 months, you will see roots filling the bag.
Cut: Cut the stem below the root ball and plant your new tree!

🐛 Ficus Burgundy Pests and Treatment

The glossy leaves of the Burgundy are a magnet for dust, and unfortunately, dust effectively hides pests until the infestation is severe.

Spider Mites: The most common enemy. They love dry, dusty leaves. Look for tiny webbing on the undersides of leaves or where the leaf meets the stem. If you see stippling (tiny yellow dots) on the leaves, check for mites.
Mealybugs: Look for white, cottony fluff in the nooks and crannies of the plant (especially hidden in the unfurling stipules).
Scale: These look like hard brown bumps that can be scraped off. Ficus are prone to scale. They suck the sap and leave a sticky residue (honeydew).
Thrips: Tiny, slender winged insects. They cause silvery damage on the leaves.

Treatment: Regularly wiping your leaves is the best prevention.

Isolate: Move the plant away from others.
Shower: Take it to the shower and hose it down gently to knock off 90% of pests.
Treat: Spray thoroughly with Neem oil or an insecticidal soap. For Scale, you may need to dab each bug with a q-tip dipped in alcohol.
Repeat: Treat every 5-7 days for at least 3 weeks. Pests have life cycles; you must kill the hatchlings too.

🩺 Ficus Burgundy Problems and Troubleshooting

The Leaf Shine Ritual (Cleaning)

Cleaning your Ficus Burgundy isn't just a chore; it's a vital part of care. Dust layers block light, preventing deep burgundy coloration. **The Two-Cloth Method**: 1. **Damp Cloth**: Use a soft microfiber cloth dipped in slightly warm water (add a drop of neem oil for shine and pest prevention). 2. **Support**: Place your hand *under* the leaf to support it. Ficus leaves can snap off if pressed down too hard. 3. **Wipe**: Wipe gently from the stem to the tip. 4. **Dry Cloth**: Follow up with a dry cloth to prevent water spots (calcium deposits) from forming as the water evaporates.

Root Rot (Yellow/Mushy Leaves)

If leaves are yellowing and dropping rapidly (especially lower leaves), and the soil stays wet for weeks, check the roots. * **Diagnosis**: Unpot the plant. Healthy roots are firm and whitish-tan. Rotted roots are mushy, slimy, dark, and smell swampy. * **Fix**: You must trim away *all* the rot with sterilized scissors. Rinse the remaining healthy roots. Repot into fresh, dry, chunky soil. Water lightly only after a few days.

Leaf Drop (Shock)

Ficus dislike change.

Symptoms: Perfectly healthy-looking green leaves just fall off.
Causes: Moving the plant, repotting, cold drafts, darkness.
Solution: Stop moving it! Give it optimal light and warmth and leave it alone. It will stabilize.

Curling Leaves

Leaves curling inward can indicate:

Underwatering: The plant is trying to conserve moisture.
Heat Stress: Too close to a heater or hot window.
Low Humidity: Rarely severe enough to cause curling, but possible.

🍂 root-rot 🍂 yellowing-leaves 🍂 dropping-leaves 🍂 brown-spots

🖼️ Ficus Burgundy Display Ideas

The Ficus Burgundy is a structural masterpiece.

The Statement Piece: A large, mature Burgundy looks incredible in a woven basket or a terracotta pot standing alone in a corner. The dark leaves ground the room and provide a strong vertical element that draws the eye up.
Contrast: Place it near plants with lighter foliage (like the Ficus Altissima, Neon Pothos, or Monstera Deliciosa) to make the purple-black leaves pop. The contrast emphasizes the unique color of the Burgundy.
Groupings: Use it as the tall backdrop for a cluster of smaller aroids or ferns. This simulates a forest canopy effect.

🌟 Ficus Burgundy Care Tips (Pro Advice)

The “Shake” Technique (Thigmomorphogenesis): Yes, really. Gently shaking the trunk of your Ficus simulates wind. This mechanical stress signals the plant to release ethylene, which thickens the cell walls and lignifies the trunk. This leads to a thicker, sturdier tree that can support its own weight without staking.
Rotate It: Ficus are phototropic; they grow towards the light. If you don’t rotate the pot a quarter turn every time you water, you will end up with a leaning tower.
Notching: If you have a bare stem and want a branch, you can “notch” the trunk above a node (make a small cut about 1/4 into the trunk). This interrupts the hormone flow and can stimulate the dormant bud to break and form a new branch.
Shine Spray: Avoid commercial leaf shine sprays. They can clog the stomata (pores). A damp cloth with a mild soap solution is safer and better.

🌍 History and Origins

The Rubber Plant (Ficus elastica) gets its common name from its sticky white sap (latex). In the early 20th century, before synthetic rubber was widely produced, these trees were harvested for their latex to create rubber products, although the Pará rubber tree (Hevea brasiliensis) eventually became the primary source.

Native to the tropical regions of India, Nepal, Bhutan, Burma, China, Malaysia, and Indonesia, the wild Ficus elastica is a banyan-type fig that can grow over 100 feet tall, developing massive aerial roots that anchor it to the ground. The ‘Burgundy’ cultivar was specifically developed in nurseries to enhance the production of dark pigments, creating a more ornamental plant suitable for modern interior design, where it serves as a stunning, living sculpture.

The Science Behind the Color (Anthocyanins)

Why is the Ficus Burgundy so dark? It’s all about Anthocyanins. These are water-soluble vacuolar pigments that may appear red, purple, blue, or black depending on the pH. In the wild, these pigments serve a protective function. Just as melanin protects human skin from UV damage, anthocyanins can protect plant tissues from photo-inhibition (light stress) by absorbing excess high-energy photons.

This explains the care: The plant produces more of them in high light to protect itself. It’s literally tanning! Conversely, in low light, the plant stops “spending expensive energy” on these protective pigments and reverts to green chlorophyll to catch every available photon. So, if you want the “Burgundy” look, you must give it the light stress it craves (safely).

⚠️ Toxicity and Safety

It is important to know that the Ficus Burgundy is toxic to dogs, cats, and humans if ingested.

The Latex Sap

The milky white sap (latex) that oozes from cuts or broken leaves is a skin irritant and toxic.

Ingestion Symptoms: Drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, lack of appetite, and oral irritation.
Skin Contact: Can cause dermatitis (itchy rash) in sensitive individuals.
Eye Contact: Can be painful and cause redness. Wash eyes immediately if sap gets in them.

Safety Tips:

Wear gloves when pruning.
Keep the plant out of reach of curious pets (or spray with a bitter deterrent).
Clean up fell leaves promptly.

❓ Frequently Asked Questions

Why are my Ficus Burgundy leaves turning green?

Loss of the deep burgundy color usually indicates insufficient light. The plant produces more chlorophyll (green pigment) to maximize energy absorption in dim conditions. Move it to a brighter spot to restore the dark purple hues.

How fast does Ficus Burgundy grow?

In optimal conditions (bright light, warmth, regular feeding), Ficus Burgundy is a fast grower, easily adding 24 inches or more in a single growing season. In lower light, growth slows significantly.

Is Ficus Burgundy toxic to cats and dogs?

Yes, like all Ficus elastica varieties, it contains a milky white latex sap that is toxic if ingested and can cause skin irritation. Keep it out of reach of pets.

Why is my plant dropping leaves?

Leaf drop is the plant’s stress response. Common causes include moving the plant (shock), cold drafts, or inconsistent watering (either too wet or too dry). Stability is key.

ℹ️ Ficus Burgundy Info

Care and Maintenance

🪴 Soil Type and pH: Well-draining, chunky mix (orchid bark, perlite, soil, coco chunks)

💧 Humidity and Misting: Average home humidity is fine; wiping leaves is key.

✂️ Pruning: Prune to shape or encourage branching; watch out for latex sap.

🧼 Cleaning: Wipe leaves weekly to prevent dust buildup and maximize photosynthesis

🌱 Repotting: Every 2-3 years, or when rootbound

🔄 Repotting Frequency: Every 2-3 years

❄️ Seasonal Changes in Care: Reduce watering in winter; move away from cold drafts and heaters

Growing Characteristics

💥 Growth Speed: Fast grower in good light (2ft/year)

🔄 Life Cycle: Perennial evergreen tree

💥 Bloom Time: Rarely blooms indoors

🌡️ Hardiness Zones: 10-11 (outdoors)

🗺️ Native Area: Southeast Asia (Cultivar origin)

🚘 Hibernation: Semi-dormant in winter

Propagation and Health

📍 Suitable Locations: Living rooms, bright offices, corners near windows, entryways

🪴 Propagation Methods: Stem cuttings in water or soil; air layering for large branches.

🐛 Common Pests: spider-mites, mealybugs, scale, and thrips

🦠 Possible Diseases: Root rot, fungal leaf spots, powdery mildew

Plant Details

🌿 Plant Type: Tree / Shrub

🍃 Foliage Type: Broadleaf evergreen

🎨 Color of Leaves: Dark purple, almost black, with red midribs and bright red stipules

🌸 Flower Color: N/A (Hidden inside synconium)

🌼 Blooming: Insignificant synconium (figs) if mature

🍽️ Edibility: Toxic; do not ingest

📏 Mature Size: Up to 6-8 feet indoors (can reach 100ft in wild)

Additional Info

🌻 General Benefits: Air purifying (removes formaldehyde), statement decor piece

💊 Medical Properties: N/A

🧿 Feng Shui: Wealth and abundance (money plant family); grounding energy

⭐ Zodiac Sign Compatibility: Capricorn (resilient, steady, ambitious)

🌈 Symbolism or Folklore: Abundance, happiness, and wealth

📝 Interesting Facts: The ‘Burgundy’ coloration is due to anthocyanins protecting the leaf from sun. The red sheath (stipule) falls off as the leaf opens.

Buying and Usage

🛒 What to Look for When Buying: Look for shiny, unblemished leaves; avoid plants with dropped lower leaves or wobbly trunks.

🪴 Other Uses: Latex production (historically)

Decoration and Styling

🖼️ Display Ideas: Floor plant in a woven basket or ceramic pot

🧵 Styling Tips: Pair with lighter plants for contrast; use a moss pole to keep it straight

Kingdom Plantae

Family Moraceae

Genus Ficus

Species Ficus elastica