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An Introduction to Air Layering for Indoor Trees

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Has your Fiddle Leaf Fig gotten too tall and leggy? Air layering is the advanced propagation technique for you. This guide provides a detailed, 7-step process to grow roots directly on the stem of your plant, allowing you to create a perfect, new, shorter plant from the top.

Hello, plant adventurers! Anastasia here. Have you ever looked at a beloved Fiddle Leaf Fig that’s grown tall and leggy, with a bunch of leaves at the top and a long, bare stem at the bottom? You wish you could just… lower the top, right? Well, with air layering, you basically can!

I’ll be honest: this method looks like something straight out of a science fiction movie. But while it’s the most advanced technique in our propagation series, it’s also one of the most foolproof if you follow the steps. You’re essentially tricking the plant into growing a whole new root system on the stem before you ever make a cut.

If you’re ready for a fun, fascinating project that solves the “too-tall-plant” problem, you’ve come to the right place. Let’s do some plant surgery!

🌳 Best Plants for Air Layering

This method is designed for plants with thicker, woodier, single stems that are difficult or slow to root from a simple cutting. It’s the perfect solution for rejuvenating top-heavy plants.

Top Candidates for This Project

  • Ficus lyrata (Fiddle Leaf Fig): The number one reason most people learn to air layer.
  • Ficus elastica (Rubber Plant): Works beautifully on all varieties, from Tineke to Burgundy.
  • Monstera deliciosa: Ideal for older, vining Monsteras that have developed long, leafless sections.
  • Dracaena: Corn Plants, Dragon Trees, and others in the Dracaena family are great candidates.
  • Schefflera (Umbrella Plant): Can be used to create a bushier plant from a tall, single stem.
  • Dieffenbachia (Dumb Cane): Another plant that tends to get leggy over time and benefits from this method.
A group of tall, single-stemmed houseplants perfect for air layering, including a Fiddle Leaf Fig and a Rubber Plant.
If your plant has a woody stem and has gotten too tall, it’s a perfect candidate.

šŸ› ļø How to Air Layer in 7 Steps

Before you start, gather your tools: a very sharp, sterile craft knife; rooting hormone; a few handfuls of sphagnum moss (pre-soaked in water and then squeezed out); clear plastic wrap; and some twine or electrical tape.

Step 1: Choose Your Spot

Decide where you want the new root system to be. This will be the base of your new, shorter plant. Pick a spot on the main stem a few inches below the lowest leaf you want to keep on your new top section.

Step 2: Make the Wound

This is what triggers the rooting process. Using your sterile knife, carefully make a shallow, upward-slanting cut about one-third of the way through the stem. The cut should be about an inch long. You can stick a small piece of a toothpick into the cut to keep it open. This “wound” is where the plant will focus its energy to create new roots.
A close-up of a sharp craft knife making a clean, upward-slanting cut into the woody stem of a Fiddle Leaf Fig.
A clean, shallow wound is the signal that tells the plant, ‘Grow roots here!’

Step 3: Apply Rooting Hormone

Use a small brush or a cotton swab to apply a generous amount of rooting hormone powder directly into the cut you just made. This step is highly recommended for air layering as it dramatically speeds up the process and encourages robust root growth.

Step 4: Wrap in Sphagnum Moss

Take a generous handful of your pre-moistened sphagnum moss and pack it firmly all the way around the wounded section of the stem. You want to create a ball of moss about the size of a tennis ball or a large apple.
Hands carefully packing a ball of moist sphagnum moss around the wounded section of a plant stem.
The moist moss provides the perfect environment for new roots to grow into.

Step 5: Seal with Plastic Wrap

Wrap your ball of moss tightly with a piece of clear plastic wrap. This is what keeps the moisture locked in. Secure the top and bottom of the plastic wrap snugly against the stem using twine or electrical tape to make it as airtight as possible.
The moss ball on the stem is now being tightly wrapped with clear plastic wrap and secured with twine.
Seal it tight to create a self-contained root-growing machine.

Step 6: Be Patient and Watch for Roots

Place the plant back in its normal spot and care for it as you usually would. After several weeks to a few months, you will start to see healthy, white roots growing through the moss and pressing against the clear plastic. This is your sign of success!

Step 7: Sever and Pot Your New Plant

Once the moss ball is filled with a dense network of roots, it’s time for graduation. Using a sharp pair of pruners or a saw, make the final cut through the stem just below your new root ball. Carefully remove the plastic wrap, but leave the sphagnum moss intact-the roots have grown through it. Pot your new, shorter plant into an appropriately sized pot with fresh soil.
A pair of sharp pruners making the final cut on the plant stem, just below the moss ball which is full of new roots.
Once the roots are ready, it’s time to make the cut and create your new plant.

ā“ Frequently Asked Questions

How long does air layering take?

This is a slow process that requires patience. Depending on the plant and time of year, it can take anywhere from 2 to 6 months to develop a root ball large enough to be severed from the parent plant. Check it every few weeks!

What will happen to the bottom part of the plant after I cut the top off?

Don’t throw it out! The original plant, now just a stump, will often activate a dormant bud just below where you made the cut and begin to grow a new branch, becoming a bushier plant. This is called ’notching'.

How do I keep the sphagnum moss moist inside the plastic?

If you seal the plastic wrap tightly with electrical tape or twine, it should hold moisture for a very long time. However, if it looks dry after a month or two, you can carefully open the top of the plastic and use a syringe or a small watering can to inject more water into the moss, then reseal it.

How do I know when there are enough roots to make the final cut?

You want to see a dense network of roots that have grown throughout the sphagnum moss, not just one or two. A good rule of thumb is to wait until you can see roots circling around the inside of the plastic wrap. The more roots, the better the chance of a successful transition.

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